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Topics - Supe

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Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Manual Rack Question
« on: October 03, 2018, 10:05:13 AM »
Can anyone confirm that there are no seals towards the center of a manual steering rack housing? (mid way down the tube between the pinion housing and the flare on the passenger side housing near the mount.)  Since I have to roll my rack forward a bit for my swap, I would like to weld a small locating tab to the center of the housing and need to make sure I'm not going to melt/damage anything on the backside.  Thanks!

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Rack Width?
« on: August 09, 2018, 09:17:30 AM »
Does anyone know the width of the FC RX7 rack (manual, but PS should be the same) from inner tie rod to inner tie rod?

Build Threads / Supe's NASCARX-7 (SB2.2 swap)
« on: June 27, 2018, 08:06:40 PM »
I know some folks have seen occasional shots of my car.  I'm the world's worst person when it comes to taking pictures, so I'm going to try to do better, since things are a bit more unique this time around in the engine department.

So here's the bulk of what the car was:

V1 - 383 carb'd SBC, JEEP swap headers, T5 Trans, bad T2 diff (as-bought)

V2 - 383 SBC with Holley EFI, T5 Trans, bad T2 diff, COT wing, snow shovel splitter, Koni coilovers, stock T2 brakes

V3 - 383 SBC w/Holley EFI, T101a 4 dog box trans, Ronin 8.8 IRS, COT/Singular wing, Wilwoods all around from Revolution Brake, Wilwood pedal assembly, Sweet steering column, extensive cage, ATL cell, tube front end, fiberglass door skins, fiberglass sunroof panel, glass nose, radiator airbox, blah blah blah blah blah

The important thing in all of that, is that the 383 was a piece of shit. 

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Does anyone other than LRB Speed sell delrin bushings for the FC control arms?  They're currently on backorder.  I'm have tempted to say fuggit and order the pillow ball version from RHD Japan, but they're $$$.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Big tire alignment for FC
« on: May 09, 2018, 12:20:02 PM »
For those of you on 275-315 tires in an FC, what are you running for track alignments?  I'm starting at ground zero again on the new setup.  Leaning towards 1/8" out back, 1/16" out up front.  Particularly interested in rear camber, and front castor settings.  I've got a bad scrub radius, so I'm worried about going to heavy on castor and making the thing impossible to turn/nightmares in the bumps like it used to be.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Hub failure?
« on: November 29, 2017, 04:19:16 PM »
Has anyone here experienced hub failures or excessive bearing wear on the fronts of an FC running wide tires, e.g. 275's or wider?

I can't help but feel that even with weight reduction, that the additional aero loads plus turning loads of a 315 tire, along with the terrible scrub radius is putting the factory hub/bearing assembly through hell.  I'm wondering if something like the RHD Japan hubs are worth the $600 for peace of mind, or if there are any other options out there without building a set of uprights from scratch.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / FC tie rod taper
« on: September 08, 2016, 01:46:19 PM »
Anyone know if the FC tie rods use a standard 7 or 10 taper?

Interior/Exterior / Disassembly of flash to pass lenses
« on: June 27, 2016, 10:24:37 AM »
Has anyone here successfully disassembled their flash to pass lenses?  Does the ol' pop them in the oven trick seem to work? 

I have figured out a way to mount my LED units behind the FTP lenses, solving three problems at once - need for "headlights" to stay class legal, filling an aero void by maintaining factory lenses, and shortening my LED support rods to clear my brake ducts when removing the nose from the car.  I can't use the cheapie $30 poly "plugs" they sell, as I do not have original mounting studs tabs.

Problem is, the lights I have are pretty ratty and yellowed (including overspray from previous owner), and it doesn't appear that cleaning just the outside will do it.  I am not spending $150 on replacements.  Any tips/tricks?


General Tech / FC exhaust routing options?
« on: June 06, 2016, 09:18:55 AM »
Does anyone here have any photos of very tightly tucked FC exhaust routing?  I would like to go for a flat bottom in the hill climb car, and have two low spots to contend with currently - The bellhousing, and the exhaust.

Bellhousing is an easy fix, with a trim of the lower flange.  Exhaust however, runs straight back below the floor boards and hangs a 90 out before the rear wheels, and is the lowest part of the car (3.5" max ground clearance at the bullet mufflers, and I am not running a low ride height. 

I am debating whether to just route them 90 degrees out of the headers and run them somewhat like side pipes and just flat floor between the rails (which would at least feed the diffuser), but I feel like someone out there has a tight tuck up in the trans tunnel or similar that may work better.  The size/configuration of the T101a trans doesn't help there, though.

Fabrication / Notching strut tower/wheel wells
« on: March 21, 2016, 10:03:25 AM »
Has anyone here notched the area on the outside of the strut towers, on top of the front wheels, to allow increased tire clearance? 

I have 275/45/17's up front, and sub 600# springs up front to allow some travel from crappy road surfaces during the hill climbs.  I rubbed on bumps before, and have increased front end downforce now to exacerbate the problem.  I'm also at the top end of my shock travel at this point, and have to run with the spring perches run up all the way to work with the Koni adjustables. 

Drivetrain / Driveshafts with Quick Release Yoke
« on: November 01, 2014, 07:54:37 PM »
For those of your running a driveshaft with a bolt-on/quick release style trans yoke, who did you order your driveshaft through?  I have only seen Inland Empire and Mark Williams offer that style yoke, but I'm sure I'm missing some.  I would prefer not to buy a driveshaft and yoke separately, since I want the assembled unit come balanced.

Drivetrain / Question for T101a users (in an FC)
« on: August 08, 2014, 07:07:51 PM »
For those of you with a T101a, how much cutting/beating did you have to do on the trans tunnel to fit the Long/Hurst style shifter and linkages?

My T101a is sitting and ready to go in, but I'm starting to worry that I will have interference issues.  I have trimmed the shifter hole as much as possible without getting into the side of the trans tunnel, but my fat butt uses a wide seat, and if I am going to have to start cutting into/boxing sections of the trans tunnel to clear the shifter, I'm going to be in deep shit, because there just isn't any room. 

When I measured for the setback, I went right from the back of the bellhousing to the center of the shifter hole, so it should be centered front to rear at least.

Any insight would be much appreciated. 

Drivetrain / 1st Gen SBC Coolant Surge Tank
« on: June 07, 2014, 05:16:02 PM »
Just a quick sanity check before I start ordering fittings.

I have a vertical surge tank I picked up for a song.  I can get it up high enough for the cap and inlet fittings to be the highest point in the system, but the outlet on the bottom is below the height of the water pump.

1) Is it OK to have the bottom outlet of the surge tank plumbed into the lower radiator hose?  This is by far the easiest configuration for me. 

2) If bleeding air from a higher point in the system, is it necessary to have an NPT bleed line on the radiator itself? (Presumably just below the original radiator cap)

3) I have an NPT port directly on top of the water neck for the upper radiator hose.  Any reason not to run a bleeder line to the surge tank from there?

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Brake distribution block inlet size?
« on: May 17, 2014, 09:02:33 PM »
Does anyone know what size and pitch the threads are on the rear brake distribution block inlet? 

I am converting everything up front to AN lines and fittings, and need to find an AN adapter fitting that will work for the inlet on the rear block, as the rears still have the factory calipers, and the rear flex lines in it match the factory rear hard lines. 

Drivetrain / Stroker oil pan for SBC FC
« on: May 01, 2014, 06:43:25 PM »
Can anyone recommend a pan with clearance for a stroker crank in a first gen SBC for use with the Granny's kit in an FC?

Previous owner has the Granny's pan in there.  Pan hit the Granny's mount in front and rubbed two holes through it.  383 has the block clearanced for the rearmost counterweight on the driver's side (one piece rear main seal block), and he apparently ran the engine before ever checking clearances, so the counterweight bulged out the side of the pan and has cracked it right along the pan rail.  The shitty stamped pan is also so terrible, that the rails simply will not seal over a one piece Felpro pan gasket.

Car will see nothing but hill climbs and TT events, so a little extra capacity and baffling over stock would also be preferred.  I can notch the front of the pan myself to clear the manual rack, but I just want something I won't have to clearance anywhere else that will actually seal!

Thanks for the help.

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