SEDIV, which is the most active of the SCCA regions for Time Trial, added a second points championship for 2019 to include a series for the new Time Trial Nationals car classifications.  This let them bolster their schedule bigtime, with 13 events total for 2019.  The "Legacy" schedule is open for cars that basically have a minimum of a roll bar, harnesses, handheld fire extinguisher, and driver safety gear (fire suit, gloves, shoes, arm restraints if no cage).  The TTN classes allow just about any level of prep including bone stock, with only a helmet required for the drivers.  We're really trying to breathe some new life into this program, and dollar for dollar, you will get more track time than most other sanctioning bodies or privately run track days/HPDE sessions.  Hope some of y'all can make it out this year.  I probably won't have the RX7 ready thanks to this dang shoulder surgery, but you'll probably see me in either a POS 944 or tooling around in an old automatic CTS Sport!

Does anyone know the width of the FC RX7 rack (manual, but PS should be the same) from inner tie rod to inner tie rod?

Does anyone other than LRB Speed sell delrin bushings for the FC control arms?  They're currently on backorder.  I'm have tempted to say fuggit and order the pillow ball version from RHD Japan, but they're $$$.

Has anyone here experienced hub failures or excessive bearing wear on the fronts of an FC running wide tires, e.g. 275's or wider?

I can't help but feel that even with weight reduction, that the additional aero loads plus turning loads of a 315 tire, along with the terrible scrub radius is putting the factory hub/bearing assembly through hell.  I'm wondering if something like the RHD Japan hubs are worth the $600 for peace of mind, or if there are any other options out there without building a set of uprights from scratch.

Has anyone here successfully disassembled their flash to pass lenses?  Does the ol' pop them in the oven trick seem to work? 

I have figured out a way to mount my LED units behind the FTP lenses, solving three problems at once - need for "headlights" to stay class legal, filling an aero void by maintaining factory lenses, and shortening my LED support rods to clear my brake ducts when removing the nose from the car.  I can't use the cheapie $30 poly "plugs" they sell, as I do not have original mounting studs tabs.

Problem is, the lights I have are pretty ratty and yellowed (including overspray from previous owner), and it doesn't appear that cleaning just the outside will do it.  I am not spending $150 on replacements.  Any tips/tricks?


Thanks

Has anyone here notched the area on the outside of the strut towers, on top of the front wheels, to allow increased tire clearance? 

I have 275/45/17's up front, and sub 600# springs up front to allow some travel from crappy road surfaces during the hill climbs.  I rubbed on bumps before, and have increased front end downforce now to exacerbate the problem.  I'm also at the top end of my shock travel at this point, and have to run with the spring perches run up all the way to work with the Koni adjustables. 

For those of you with a T101a, how much cutting/beating did you have to do on the trans tunnel to fit the Long/Hurst style shifter and linkages?

My T101a is sitting and ready to go in, but I'm starting to worry that I will have interference issues.  I have trimmed the shifter hole as much as possible without getting into the side of the trans tunnel, but my fat butt uses a wide seat, and if I am going to have to start cutting into/boxing sections of the trans tunnel to clear the shifter, I'm going to be in deep shit, because there just isn't any room. 

When I measured for the setback, I went right from the back of the bellhousing to the center of the shifter hole, so it should be centered front to rear at least.

Any insight would be much appreciated.