April 26, 2024, 04:42:06 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Cryptic

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 37
1
Just because the factory does one thing, doesn't mean it's right or intentional. Also, at how much compression?  What did it do on the rebound? I can say from my personal experience getting your setup to rotate around neutral (0 toe) certainly feels better.

2
A timesert would be appropriate. Not sure I'd trust a helicoil for such a critical function.

So has anyone found a way (or where to purchase) a 5/8-18 to 12x1.5mm thread adapter for this application?  Did Samberg turn his own?

3
Ronin Speedworks / Re: FD LSx swap subframe - RONIN's design
« on: February 03, 2020, 06:52:28 PM »
One question, your drawing doesn’t show the recessed notch for the steering rack to fit into, are you planning on adding this?
That's actually where the steering rack bushing sits in and aligns itself.  That has to be there.


I read this thread at 8 am this morning and contemplating putting my name down. The day got busy, but I would really like to see the final price as a Samberg replacement subframe before I commit. I am really interested in the suspension binding part you talked about. I've been fighting that forever.

4
Ronin Speedworks / Re: FD LSx swap subframe - RONIN's design
« on: February 03, 2020, 09:19:08 AM »
Do you think it could be installed with engine in car? Maybe if I suspend engine from above.

I have pulled the Samberg subframe out with engine still in car. It is possible.

5
A timesert would be appropriate. Not sure I'd trust a helicoil for such a critical function.

Wrong thread?  Not making much sense here bud.

6
https://youtu.be/X3DTTL9xRQ0

Check the end of the video. Pretty good explanation for the best channel on YouTube.

That's the video that gave me the idea for the Lazer on the rotor. It got me within .030", but without measuring with the longacre, I would have never known how close I really was.

7
Long overdue update. Finally got around to editing.


8
No kidding, waited for quite a long time for this. Gave up, bought the Magnum. Got new driveshaft and spline yoke. 

1 season later, it gets released.

9
Justin Samberg was kind enough to confirm its a 5/8 bore with 5/8-18 female thread. Pretty standard stuff.

Pick your poison.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/heim-joints-and-rod-ends~14-16-578-31189?facet=l_thread_type:133*l_thread_pitch:8978*l_thread_type:135

10
Copying from my facebook thread I started:

I was driving back from the Tail of the Dragon to my hotel and it started to rain hard (again). The kind of rain where you can barely see anything. I slowed her down and I noticed the car was darting all over the place. I wasn't sure at the time if it was the rain or the damn alignment slipped again. Luckily, I was on my way to the enclosed trailer to pack her up to home anyway.

I have been chasing a problem on the RX-7 for the last 5 years. The car has always felt a little unsettled on our craptastic WI roads. The alignment has been bumped or forced out of alignment on at least 3 occasions. I believe it happened again at the Tail of the Dragon. That could have resulted in bad things if it slipped anymore than it did.

I found one end link stud (Samberg) was actually BENT and one of the caster/camber bolts slipped out of position. (I took pics of them after my 3rd trip to the alignment shop) Also carved out a piece of steel to brace any alignment slipping and tacked it into place.

Replaced both end link studs, tested for bump steer, and did an old school alignment. (I'm actually getting good at this now LOL)

Took the car for a test drive and it has NEVER felt so planted and sure-footed over crappy roads. I have actually changed tire sizes (taller sidewall) because of this issue. I questioned my coilovers being too stiff. Nope! Just incorrectly corrected bump steer.


Adjustable Pinto Tie-Rod Adapter Stud to Heim: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html?sku=91636055-PINTO

Cone Spacers: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Cone-Spacers-for-Rod-Ends-5-8-Inch,32702.html


11
Did you need the cone spacers like someone mentioned above?


What method did you use to adjust the bump steer? Did you have one of those Longacre tools like this:



12
Anybody have a picture of this installed?  Trying to understand how to this replaces or is used with Samberg's bump steer. I dont get it. Am I looking at the right thing? Is this like a taller spacer?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pinto-Spindle-Bump-Steer-Correction-Kit,52425.html



I'm assuming we disassemble this tie rod end and replace with the above???

13
Drivetrain / Re: SIKKY shifter for T56 Magnum install (updated design)
« on: February 02, 2018, 04:50:15 PM »
Nice shout out to Matt in your video! The video on the suspension changes is awesome. Makes me want to grab some KWs, if I could find them. Now, you're having me consider upgrading my Sikky shifter!

Just saw the video myself, got me thinking about the KW HLS kit.   I'm assuming it's this universal kit for $4000  :o  :yay:

http://www.kwsuspensions.com/products/kw-suspensions/hls-hydraulic-lift-system/kw-suspensions-hls4-system-universal-19299499.html


Anyone know if it's limited to all the way up / all the way down? 



14
Drivetrain / Re: Optimal position for T-56 Magnum shifter.
« on: February 01, 2018, 10:54:56 PM »
I put this thing in my build, and the shifter came up dead center with a T56 magnum..  And it's like half the price of the Sikky one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-shwl20300sr3



Are you sure you linked the right part?  The image they picture show show a shifter that goes straight up. There is no offset.


15
Drivetrain / Re: Optimal position for T-56 Magnum shifter.
« on: February 01, 2018, 10:25:53 PM »
Bump.... Sikky now offers a 5.5" setback. Any opinions if this would be more ideal?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 37