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Messages - jwvand02

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Build Threads / Re: My FC NASA racecar build
« on: February 11, 2021, 09:17:19 AM »
I'd do some unspeakable things for plans/write up/dimensions on this.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Alternative tyre sizes for 275/40/17
« on: February 06, 2021, 12:58:48 PM »
Not really - you can step up to 18s and run a 275/35 or a 285/35 but those are even more expensive. Falken RT660s can be had in 275/40/17 but those are stickier than what you're looking at.

The Lounge / Re: Whats the closest thing to a road sensible atom ariel?
« on: January 27, 2021, 07:58:14 AM »
Probably a motorcycle lol

Something serving the purpose of an atom or a liter bike I wouldn't want to be in the rain with anyways.

Alfa 4c's are supposed to be quite the experience.  Lotus elise or exige also makes a lot of sense.  Talk to Sciff from the forum about his.

I don't know how true this genuinely is, but I've heard that the 4C comes with supercar headaches and sometimes supercar prices. One of the specifics I have heard is that since it's a full-carbon tub, a minor collision can total the car. That plus the famed Alfa reliability has really scared me off the idea.

The Lounge / Re: Whats the closest thing to a road sensible atom ariel?
« on: January 24, 2021, 07:21:19 PM »
The difficulty in this question is that the thing that makes an atom an atom is that it's not road sensible at all. So I guess the question is as much "what is the rawest road car" and the answer is probably an elise or exige.

The other option might be one of the bajillions of lotus 7 clones, like if you want to spend a good chunk of change I think you can get a brunton stalker with a fiberglass top.

Without question...

Those, or the Superlite will easily exceed $100K if done right.
Not sure you could even do a budget build for that.
Factory Five claims that most GTMs cost under 50k to build.

Now, I don't believe that for a second, but I think having 70k to spend on supplies and a drive train is super doable. The major downside is that it's damn near a tube-frame racecar with a less-than-impressive interior jammed in, but in reality so are most Lambos.

If it was 100k of my own money and I actually had to own it, I think I'd come out the other end with a Cayman GT4 or maybe an early 997 GT3 (not a ton of 997 GT3s to be had under 100k). This is mostly for the combination of being absurdly good cars, very reliable, and about the closest thing to an appreciating asset you can get with 4 wheels.  Honorable mention for an R8 (I think you can get a V10 for 100k, but V8 is cool too) also in terms of being not insanely expensive to own.

In terms of cars that could be had under 100k that would be cool to have but maybe not to own:
Exige S
One of the extra-wild kit cars (Ultima GTR, Superlite SL-C)

New Members/Introductions / Re: Hi everyone
« on: January 14, 2021, 06:11:02 PM »
All that said - it's a small place so if you figure out where the one thread on any given topic is, it's usually pretty well consolidated and has damn near everything you need to know

Drivetrain / Re: Cathedral Port LS intake
« on: January 13, 2021, 12:47:26 PM »
I almost pulled the trigger on the Dorman when the prices started climbing, I found one for like $400 on car-part or something. Really regret not doing it now... JEGS still has a couple at $780 or so.

At that price though, I'll just grab a used FAST 92 off lstech or something.

Drivetrain / Re: Any recommendations for a reputable used T56 source?
« on: January 07, 2021, 09:05:03 AM »
you could try searchtempest and search craigslist over the states.  If you find one close to a member on here I am sure someone would be willing to help facilitate the deal so you don't get hosed by some loser on craigslist.   I did a search on Car-part.com and they were WAYYYY overpriced everywhere.  These salvage yards/rebuild places are asking more than a new Magnum!

Most T56s that are anything other than completely trashed are approaching magnum prices now. They're getting rare. Even then, unless you can open the case or drive the car before it's pulled it's a big gamble because they're all so old. I had mine rebuilt last year by TDP and by time it was all said and done, I sort of regretted it. I didn't spend as much as a new Magnum but I was a lot closer than I would have liked. If I was smart I'd be doing what LOF did and go ahead and pull my minty and documented T56 and sell it for inflated prices and buy a magnum before everyone realizes it's pointless to run a T56 anymore.

When you say all hoses included - for which chassis or are they more or less the same?

(f-body spacing, no flipped DBW here)

Electronics / Re: Warm positive battery terminal
« on: December 26, 2020, 10:34:09 AM »
Gunny, the most foolproof place to put the sense wire is directly on the battery positive post. Realistically, the battery cable post on the starter is fine too, and typically easier. Of course, this does assume the battery cable, and its lugs, are in top shape.

As far as it firing back up fine, maybe you have solved the problem. Carry your voltmeter in the car for a while, if you do get a slow start, you can check the voltages again.

Alhadra, I agree, with your alternator output directly tied to the battery like yours is, the "sense wire" in your setup is at the battery. I also agree about the higher voltage helping things in general; as long as the battery can take it, everything in general works better with higher voltage.

Back to battery cables. They can look perfect, but corrosion can form between the lug and the cable. Anytime electrical problems come up, peel back any tape or heat shrink and look where the cable goes into the lug. Any trace of green is trouble; that's corrosion, and the lug and / or cable needs replacing.

Finally, I'm sure none of you have this, but I've seen aluminum battery cables before! Absolute crap, and my old FB came with one stock! Predictably, it failed, at the lug.

If you get a great deal on a battery cable (aluminum is cheap compared to copper), peel back the covering where the cable goes into the lug. If the cable is silver, and the lug is crimped on, then the cable is aluminum. The cable in soldered lugs may be silver from the solder, and you know it's copper cable, because aluminum cannot be soldered to copper or brass lugs.

In buying wire, I've noticed a lot of copper-clad aluminum wiring on Amazon, eBay, etc. of late.
You have to read the fine print to be sure it's actually copper wire.
Stay away from the ridiculous priced audiophile wires though.  Good quality welding cable is excellent for making battery cables.
Yup, welding cable only. It comes with the added benefit of already coming with good heat-resistant insulation too. I want to add that lugs that large need to have a hydraulic crimper. Harbor freight has one that works fine for the home gamer.

I mentioned earlier I had very similar issues (car would be okay for a bit, heat up, stop charging, battery completely dies in traffic) and it was because PO built the battery cables out of aforementioned CCA audio wire and put the lugs on with a hand crimper or a hammer. I chased all kinds of alternator wiring stuff before finally just fixing the obvious issue.

Electronics / Re: Warm positive battery terminal
« on: December 24, 2020, 12:32:09 PM »
How are your main cables constructed? I think you said 2AWG earlier, but what kind of terminals? I had a really similar problem that turned out to be my main battery cables needing replaced.

Electronics / Re: speedometer
« on: December 16, 2020, 04:53:24 PM »
+1 on the Integra speedo swap.  It's worth the trouble and only a good eye can spot the difference....
So I just buy the whole cluster and swap it in?
Just search integra and you'll find it quickly, there's a full, very thorough writeup. You probably will need to buy the whole cluster, but you only take the speedo out and graft it into the FC cluster.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: New to coilovers
« on: December 15, 2020, 06:52:27 PM »
Looking to get some coilovers soon for my fc want to run stock fenders. Iíve never purchased coilovers and plan on running the car as a daily and maybe some track whatís a good brand that everybody runs?
Depends a whole lot on your budget. There's a big FC coilover thread not far down the list here. Best off the shelf option around here is generally considered to be Fortune Auto 500 or 510s, but if you're used to megan racing prices or something you're in for a bit of sticker shock. 

As somewhat of an aside - the number of people active here with FCs is pretty small and skews very much toward "lots of time and money invested" - just keep in mind that that is the perspective you're going to hear most of the time.

Electronics / Re: speedometer
« on: December 14, 2020, 03:29:08 PM »
There's a ton of info around here on how to get the speedo working.

Short answer - the FC stock speedo is a cable type, and the GM ECU outputs an electric speedo signal. You basically have two (or three, depending on how you look at it) options:

1. Use a dakota digital cable drive box to convert the electrical signal into a cable drive signal (300-400 dollars)
2a Put an electrical speedo in the cluster. There's a good writeup on installing an Integra speedo into the FC cluster that you will need to update the ECU to calibrate but otherwise gives you a pretty stock appearance. OR you can go aftermarket with speedhut and the like if you want.
2b Use a GPS speedo. Makes sense if you are going to move to something like a race dash, or have more money than time (speedhut makes a self-contained GPS speedo).

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