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Messages - jwvand02

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1
The Lounge / Re: Defined Autowork's RX-792P
« on: February 11, 2024, 10:50:16 AM »
  I know for whatever reasons we kind of turned our backs on the rotary sort of but holy Jesus this shit is awesome!

For what it's worth, I still think rotaries are extremely cool and help build one every once in a while. It's just that I track my car and I'm not made of money, so pistons it is  :D

That said, this is incredibly cool. I have always really wanted a small/dedicated racing chassis like this. I still tentatively plan to get a Rush SR or radical or something eventually.

2
Build Threads / Re: Akina's build
« on: January 16, 2024, 12:59:20 PM »
Thanks guys. I'll make a second set out of some scrap and see what we think. I have also been playing with how to put LED's in them for brake lights like the V8 supercars have in the wing stands.

Slowly chipping away and ordering more materials. I got the diff and trans coolers mounted in final position. The hard lines for the fuel and oil are done along with the fire suppression being plumbed now, pull cables included. Sadly, I didn't take completed picks of the fire system, I'll do that this week. I also finished the cooling lines in the engine bay.

I was just staring at the first picture for quite a while wondering how you managed to stuff a multi-link rear into your FC  :D

3
Drivetrain / Re: Why no mopar swaps?
« on: January 05, 2024, 09:27:37 AM »


This is a hellcat engine in a miata lol

I'm not sure you can describe that as IN a Miata. LOL

part of a miata and a hemi bolted to a giant supercharger

4
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: January 03, 2024, 04:45:33 PM »
So a bit of an update:

I got shorter springs for my coilovers, and they are just a smidge too short at full droop (like they come off the perch by about 1/8"). I think I am going to make a perch spacer out of delrin. Though the spring is not short enough/the body is not long enough to clear the tire fully, because the coilover is angled inwards and the tire section is narrower than the wheel, it does help create a ton of extra clearance.

That said, it doesn't create enough clearance to still run the 4+ degrees up front that the car wants, which requires camber bolts, with no spacer. What I can do though is dial in positive camber with the camber bolts, and then it works with no spacer.

That means I still need to do something about extending my ball joints or still run some spacer. I called Watson Racing and their ball joints are indeed for the later cars with the .750 stud, so that plan is out. I am not crazy about trying to create a press fit with sendcutsend's tolerances, the weld-in cup was kind of a critical piece of this. In the meantime I have committed to a big Wilwood brake setup (tired of using up $150+ dollars of brake pad per event) so I am stuck with FC knuckles.

I guess I have 3 options:

1. Run PBM knuckles and make some extended ball joint brackets to use 626 ball joints, no spacers. I kind of don't want to run the PBM knuckles because I need to alter the bearing spacers to work with them (the OD of the spindle/axle past the threads is ever so slightly larger than the factory), they are heavy as shit, and they have reduced ackerman. This is a lot of work but probably not super expensive overall.

2. Run factory knuckles with whiteline ball joints and an extended ball joint bracket.

3. Run a small spacer on the PBM knuckles & factory ball joints. Definitely the lowest effort and still likely a significant improvement in bearing life. Would probably still set up the bearing spacer as well, luckily I have access to a lathe to alter them. 

5
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: December 21, 2023, 03:38:19 PM »
Interesting that they list all 10 model years. The later years use a larger OD shank.
FWIW, I 3D printed a press-fit ball joint body for the Whitelines, and you need the ~15* angle that the OEM ball joints have. I wasn't able to get 1/2" steel bent locally or from SendCutSend so i shelved the idea.

Yeah, I had considered that issue. I have a SWAG Press Brake that I *think* will be beefy enough to put 15 degrees into 1/2 steel, so I am going to design the bracket, have SendCutSend cut it, bend myself, then weld the threaded cup into it. I don't think having a perfect bend angle will be important at all, as long as both sides are within a couple degrees.

6
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: December 21, 2023, 01:31:04 PM »
I think I've found a really cool way to kill two birds with one stone on that particular front, using S550 extended ball joints so I can add roll center correction at the same time.

What's the OD on the S550 ball joint stud? I bought both the early and late S197 ball joints and only the early ones fit. 2005-2010 IIRC. Whiteline makes a set that have multiple notches for different mounting heights.

Sorry, I meant the S197. The fact that only some fit is interesting, I was looking at the whiteline but I think I am going to use these instead:

https://www.lethalperformance.com/watson-racing-2005-2014-mustang-howe-extended-ball-joint-each-wr-22409.html?srsltid=AfmBOopBDXwU8bZGhoCtMx3rZVhSTu38u_BmK-FrEi_rj76GtkFbwdGsr9E

They are far more expensive than the whiteline when all is said and done (nearly $400 for the set), but I am concerned about the difficulty of creating the correct press fit with the resources at my disposal and I think they will be more reliable and durable. They would also be easily replaceable trackside.


 

7
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: December 20, 2023, 04:49:28 PM »
Yeah, I am going to go to shorter springs like LOF described to prioitize getting the wheel closer to the coilover and get rid of the spacer I'm using.

I am toying with making some custom lower joints that are slightly extended to angle the knuckle away from the coil with camber bolts and keep the amount of camber I need. I think I've found a really cool way to kill two birds with one stone on that particular front, using S550 extended ball joints so I can add roll center correction at the same time.

8
Electronics / Re: Fc ls Holley Terminator x mounting location
« on: November 26, 2023, 09:03:08 PM »
I got the LRB Speed ECU Mounting panel and put it in the passenger floor board where the factory ECU was.

9
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: November 16, 2023, 09:07:17 AM »
Quote
  Instead of a lathe we used a horizontal surface grinder since it is more precise. 

jwvand02, you can get similar precision using a tool post grinder on a lathe. You can buy one, or adapt a small bench grinder to the lathe bed. I've done that before with good results. I've even seen things online like a handheld 4" angle grinder clamped to the toolpost.

Using a grinder to shorten the bearing spacer to allow shims is certainly more precise than using a normal lathe tool. In fact, if the spacer is really hard -- like ball bearing race hard -- a normal lathe tool may not cut at all, or may not cut until you apply a lot of pressure, then it cuts too much. Using a grinder allows you to take very small amounts of material off at a time, no matter how hard the steel.

This is helpful info - before we throw it on the lathe we'll hit it with a hardness file to see what to expect. Given that it is just in compression, I can't imagine it's particularly hard, but I've been wrong before. If we think it's going to be difficult to take 1 or 2 thou off at a time I'll buy my buddy a new toy, I'm sure he won't mind.  ;)

10
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: November 06, 2023, 05:34:16 PM »
The vendor's advice is to match the spacers to the hub and that be that, but I'm not sure I want to buy a second set just yet. I have two sets of GT-1 steel hubs, and I think I am just going to use one set and keep the other set as my spare. They lasted a lot longer than the OEM ones did on this go round and come out of the box designed for replacing the races as opposed to needing to grind a relief.

11
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: November 03, 2023, 09:46:30 AM »
Quote
I was going to set them up so I could shim them if there were differences between bearing sets. 

That's what I did with the Mustang 2 bearing spacers I was using, even though those spacers were threaded. I found it faster to loctite the threads and change out shims to set the length.
Any advice on where I might find appropriately sized shims, or did you make them? It seems like the difference shouldn't be more than a couple thou between a given set of hubs/bearings.

12
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: November 02, 2023, 03:54:59 PM »
You might have better luck milling down the top-side of the tie-rod pickup and adding a second tab above that to bolt a heim joint in double shear. Safer than a single-straight bolt/nut in single shear like plenty of people run. If you spaced the top bracket high enough, you could even fit some shims and still have some bump steer adjustment. What shocks are you using? I still have my S197 Fortune auto coilover lower mounts if they're useful. They're an M52 thread IIRC.

I got the mustang spindle yesterday and I like this idea. I definitely will need a mill to make it work, so getting my mill up and running seems to be a priority before getting too crazy with this but I'm pretty determined to make it work at some point if it's feasible. I think I may put it together the way you did and see what I can figure out WRT ball joints, camber, roll center etc. first before getting too deep into the fabrication.

In the meantime, bearing spacers from MSF are on their way and I read the chapter in Prepare to Win about wheel bearings  :D



I will tell you what I did have a problem with was heat. The bearing got warm enough to pop off the service cap. I drilled a really small hole in the service cap and have never had a problem since.

I had the same issue and did the same thing. Also discovered those caps are really tough to find without buying a whole spindle...

Got bearing spacers and learned that they need dialed in very carefully with a lathe, so going to be a winter project. Need to take a look still and see if shorter springs to cut my spacer down is feasible, but I am thinking all of the above should help a *ton*

13
Forum Services / Re: ls fuel hanger question
« on: October 30, 2023, 08:59:09 AM »
Factory feed is 5/16 which can be somewhat marginal depending on what engine you're running and the application. It'll run any factory-ish LS fine, especially since you're going to AN6 pretty quickly. Yes the bottleneck matters but the length also matters with fluids.

If you're running something that is in the 500+ whp range like a cammed LS7 or 416 stroker or something and I'd be a little bit more (but really not that) concerned.

14
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: October 28, 2023, 09:57:34 AM »
You might have better luck milling down the top-side of the tie-rod pickup and adding a second tab above that to bolt a heim joint in double shear. Safer than a single-straight bolt/nut in single shear like plenty of people run. If you spaced the top bracket high enough, you could even fit some shims and still have some bump steer adjustment. What shocks are you using? I still have my S197 Fortune auto coilover lower mounts if they're useful. They're an M52 thread IIRC.

I got the mustang spindle yesterday and I like this idea. I definitely will need a mill to make it work, so getting my mill up and running seems to be a priority before getting too crazy with this but I'm pretty determined to make it work at some point if it's feasible. I think I may put it together the way you did and see what I can figure out WRT ball joints, camber, roll center etc. first before getting too deep into the fabrication.

In the meantime, bearing spacers from MSF are on their way and I read the chapter in Prepare to Win about wheel bearings  :D

15
Build Threads / Re: LOF's LS1 FC track car build
« on: October 23, 2023, 02:15:02 PM »
I have the Performance MRP kit for the front and rear of FC. The rear is designed to use FD rotors. My issue with the rear kit is it rotates the caliper up and can damage the e-brake cable. I ruined both cables before notching the frame rail lip. Their front kit requires a bunch of caliper grinding to fit 13" Evo rear rotors. They're stock thickness and have less thermal mass than the Mandeville kit.


Thanks for that tip. I have the MRP rear kit as well. Did your rotors fit without modifications to the rear hubs?

The MRP kit required grinding a decent amount of material off of each "ear" of the rear hub on my car. I did it with an angle grinder - obviously that's not ideal from a balance standpoint but I had no issues on track.

I would highly recommend helicoiling the threaded holes in the MRP brackets before you install them. The brackets are thin so there's only a few threads and they're just not strong enough in aluminum.

The other thing to be aware of is the e-brake cable will interfere with the body if you try to do the brakes just by removing the slide bolt, so you have to remove one of the mounting bolts and the caliper slide bolt to finagle the pads in.

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