June 20, 2019, 06:58:11 AM

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Messages - Cobranut

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General Tech / Re: Car seems twitchy
« on: June 18, 2019, 10:04:25 PM »
When I bought mine it was the same way.  The front tires had horrible camber wear on the inside.
I reduced negative camber a bit and increased faster, which helped, but the biggest improvement was new tires.
I also shimmied the rack up 1/8" to further correct bump steer, as the tie rod ends were spaced down as far as possible already.
It's still not perfect, but is pretty good.

General Tech / Re: ATI Damper Part Number
« on: June 17, 2019, 09:02:06 PM »
Yep, I'd say that's definitely a "bit" off.  :poke:

Build Threads / Re: UNLEASHED 280z 350sbc
« on: June 16, 2019, 08:21:09 AM »
Cool video from the show.  I wish you'd gotten more shots of that dune buggy, that thing looked pretty cool.

FYI:  When strapping your car on the trailer, the best way to prevent it moving in the event of an emergency stop or maneuver is to run the straps at an angle from each side to the opposite side on the trailer, eg: Left front on the car to right front on the trailer, and vice versa. Do the same at the rear. That tends to lock the car from moving fore and aft as well as side to side.
I've towed thousands of miles using this method and never had a vehicle shift in a trailer, even when having to make a panic stop.
Believe me, the last thing you want when something unexpected happens is for your load to shift while you're trying to avoid an accident.  :o

Build Threads / Re: UNLEASHED 280z 350sbc
« on: June 16, 2019, 08:06:04 AM »
I like those latches, what brand are they and where did you get them?  Lucky that the thread was the same.  8)

Yours doesn't appear to need it, but I wonder if a pair of door poppers around or adjacent to the latches would help to pop the panel up a bit and make it easier to open?

Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: June 14, 2019, 12:48:08 PM »

I have used DirtyPCBs.com and JLPCB.com.

No complaints with either one.


Thanks Blake, I'll check them out.

Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: June 14, 2019, 09:30:34 AM »
That's a big improvement Blake, looks great.

We have a need at work for some small quantity custom PC boards, and remembered your having some built for this project.
Could you send me the name and contact info of the company you used, and were you pleased with the quality?


General Tech / Re: FD Fuel tank Capacity
« on: June 13, 2019, 09:26:02 PM »
Pulled this from the club:
20.1 US gal (16.7 imp gal, 76 liters) MT
18.5 US gal (15.4 imp gal, 70 liters) AT

Has anyone validated two different tanks? 

Last question can I tell from my VIN if mine started life as a MT or AT? 

I think mine (Halfspec's) was a MT.

I had a strange thing, my speedhut gauge (with OEM Sender) was all wonky the first year or so of ownership.  I bought a new OEM sender but before it arrived I added additional grounds to my sender and it seemed to fix the issue, although still intermittently; but it was like 2 times in a summer it would flake out so thereby worked good enough to not replace the sender. 

Now this year the gauge is working flawlessly with me doing nothing.  I'm wondering if just cycling gas through the tank is helping the sender or if its dumb luck.  Anyway gauge showed 1/4 tank and I put in 14.7 gal this morning.   

My tank is sumped and I usually never let it get below half and when I do it takes 10-12 gallons.  I 'think' my car is a MT based on the plastic panel being original and has a shifter hole in it.  Therefore if I do have a 20 gal tank that is sumped and currently averaging 17 mpg I should have a range of 340 miles.  If that is the case I may be able to trust my fuel gauge finally.  Yay!

If your stock tach redline is at 7,000 you have an original Auto car, the manuals redlined at 8,000.
My Auto tach works well with the LS stroker, as my rev limit is set at 7,000.  :afro:

Wow, I had no idea that was a thing. The stop above the pedal is just the OEM clutch safety switch that I'm using for flat shift and launch control. It's threaded in further to get the pedal where I want it. I'm honestly not sure how much further I have it set than what's OEM, but then again, I don't have much other OEM parts for that to matter! I'll back out out for now.

I've had problems on another car when I was trying to get the pedal up a bit, and I ajusted the pushrod out so far that it held the M/C piston down a bit.
As long as you adjust the stop AND pushrod to allow the piston to fully retract it should work fine though.

Build Threads / Re: 1973 Saab Sonett with ls1 pcm control build...wtf
« on: June 10, 2019, 10:10:49 PM »
That's just weird to see an engine running with the distributor rotor just spinning around with no cap.  :o

Also, it really does sound like a V-8 with half the plug wires disconnected. LOL

THANK YOU. That makes a lot of sense. I made an adjustable pedal stop above and below the pedal, so I guess a quick test would be to extend the pedal stop up until the clutch drags when engaged and the back it off a hair.

That's what I did with the twin disk on the 13B and had good luck/drivability - adjust the master cylinder rod/pedal stop until the clutch started to grab with the pedal down and then turned the stop in a bit.

I currently have an OEM f-body bell housing, but I'm not sure the Monster pressure plate has windows for inspection. It uses an OEM-style stamped pressure plate (GM factory twin disk cover, I think).
I never would have thought over-travel would have caused an issue. Hopefully I haven't damaged the pressure plate fingers or thrust bearing.

Be careful with a stop above the pedal.
The M/C needs to retract fully to uncover the port that allows excess pressure to return to the reservoir, and allows fluid from the reservoir to refill the cylinder.
If that doesn't happen you'll have problems every time the fluid changes temp and expands or contracts, not to mention making proper bleeding impossible.

Build Threads / Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« on: June 10, 2019, 09:57:32 PM »
To get mine fully bled I used my mityvac to pull a vacuum on the reservoir for several days.
I'd go out after work each day, pump the vacuum back up and pump the pedal several times.
Eventually the pedal firmed up and works nicely.

I am thinking of tackling my own alignment for the FD as the shop I was going to is now charging $140 vs $90...

I have done some research and there seem to be a good amount of options so looking for any suggestions on brands, tools you have used. 

This one looks interesting - https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/shop/4thgen/

I know longacre has been around forever and has a bunch of options. 

Thanks in advance!

That looks like only a 2 wheel alignment setup.

I bought one of these systems a few years ago.
It does take a little bit to setup properly, but I like the fact that you don't have to rig up a way to mount the string supports to your bumpers.

I did get a Longacre setup platform, turn plates and a 4 post lift that came along with my race car.  I shimmed the lift perfectly level on the first set of hard stops about waist high, and setting the Longacre platform and Tenhulzen alignment system on the lift allows me to raise the car up for adjustments and return it to level for measurements.  Really saves my old back.  :D

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: 275/40/17 tires no longer being made?
« on: June 07, 2019, 11:37:21 AM »
I've been getting better deals at Discount Tire Direct the past few years.

Build Threads / Re: Supe's NASCARX-7 (SB2.2 swap)
« on: June 05, 2019, 11:12:35 AM »
I think it would be perfect for a Pro Challenge car given that they typically run a conventional front splitter, so it doesn't take much to balance out.  Since you're usually talking limited HP with the PC car, the low drag is ideal.

They used to supply an aluminum dual element wing, but their supplier went away.
John Litzenger at Pro-Challenge told me if I found something suitable to let him know.  I'll give him a heads-up too.

BTW, my motor should make 300hp or a bit more when I get it completed.
I'll probably have to detune it, and/or add some ballast to put it in the correct class for NASA!
SCCA is easier, as their SPU rules are more open.  How competitive I'll be will depend on whether anyone with a high-dollar car shows up in SPU for that particular race.
I'm too old to take it all that seriously though.  My goal is to have fun, do as well as I can, and drive it back to the trailer mostly intact.   :bacon:

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