So according to AEM, the ECU they sent as a replacement for my failed unit wasn't properly updated to run digital inputs correctly, so it has to go back to them again.    They are covering shipping and the RMA cost this time though, so that's better than last time at least.   They said I'd have an RMA form and label late Wednesday or Thursday morning, it's now Friday morning and nothing.  Oh well.    They're also supposed to be looking into why I can't download firmware for it as well.

It sounds like this may be why my cam sensors were being so fussy, so maybe I didn't need to spend 10 hours replacing one.   At least for peace of mind it's new I guess.   If this doesn't clear the issues up, I'm either putting a Haltech or a MS3 Ultimate in it.   A company released a DBW addon for MS3, which was the big thing stopping me from considering it.

In the meantime, I scored a killer deal on a 2018+ intake, which is worth a bunch of power up top and a pretty good gain everywhere else as well (especially vs. my 2013 truck intake) so I snagged that.   I modified the vacuum ports and 3D printed plugs for the ones I don't need, and also 3D printed lock-out levers for the variable runner controls as I don't need them/can't use them anyway.     It looks like I'll have to modify my cold side piping just a little and a few other things, but nothing major.

That's a pretty concise explanation of building these things. 

Looks great!

Came out really well.

Awesome.

From what I've heard Maaco usually has guys that can shoot paint pretty good.  They do it most every day.
With proper prep you could probably get a pretty nice paint job for not too much money that way.

If you do your own prep, it will likely come out really good. Those guys can paint well, even at Macco and the like. They do it day in and day out.

It took me and 2 friends about 20 hours to prep and paint my car. It came out really good, and I used single stage Summit brand paint that was under $100 a gallon.

I prepped and had Maaco shoot my FC at one point and it was actually pretty good (for a couple hundred bucks).   I'd say go for it.

Hi all,

My factory based sumped fuel tank has started leaking at the welds where the tank was sumped.  Its dissolving the rubber undercoating and dripping a black goo.  I'm looking for some help and options.  I have never researched fuel tanks, cells, etc in my life LOL  Hoping someone has a easy answer and its much appreciated! 

Current tank is OEM custom sump with a -8 AN on the bottom for a feed, and -6 AN top for a return.  No vents, no emissions, just a vented cap and OEM fuel sender.  There is no plastic tray inside the tank either. 

Option 1 - Remove rank and re-weld.  This seems dangerous, even flushed with water its hard to get all the fumes out and risk an explosion. I need the car driving so letting it sit for week to air out isn't a great option. 

Option 2 - Atkins rotary new OEM tank $725.  Problem is its not sumped and I would have to re-configure my fuel system, probably put the Bosch 044 in the tank, then need a slosh guard or hydra mat to keep the half tank air sucking problem from happening.  This also seems like a ton of work to R&R the tank?  I also don't have any vents, charcoal canisters, etc so could take some time to do it right and I don't have the best shop for this.  Also spending over a grand seems ridiculous to me.

Option 3 - A generic fuel cell retrofit.  I have never ordered fuel cells and have no idea where to start on this.  It does seem like its possibly cheaper.  And I could probably get it sumped and not have to mess with my existing fancy AN lines and fittings.  Using the OEM fuel neck is a must for me though so not sure if there are shops that make any custom for the FD?

Maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it then it needs to me.  All my work on cars I have never ever messed with a fuel tank LOL. 

Thanks as always!

That looks like a ton of work to make that bodykit fit up.   It's coming out pretty well though!