NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => General Tech => Topic started by: halfspec on June 07, 2012, 01:49:02 PM
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Posed the question a couple of weeks back and it didn't seem like anyone has gone through the trouble to find molded heater hoses that fit the LS1 in a FD chassis better than a straight hose that bends way up on the fender liner. Well, after several trips to my local auto stores I have the solution.
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/634.jpg)
Gates 18078
Gates 28471
and for our Canadian brothers here is a set of alternative part numbers found by quinns in reply #47 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12149.msg250099#msg250099):
Dayco 87611
Dayco 80405
I haven't verified the above part numbers, but I expect quinns has tried them.
The picture above doesn't actually show both of the correct hoses. I later found that 18078 was a better fit since it is a 5/8" hose that scales up to 3/4" right at the water pump nozzle. Gates 28471 is 5/8" all the way though. I've found that 5/8" is a good tight fit on the heater core barbs (may require boiling the hoses + windex) and my LS1 water pump uses a 3/4" and a 5/8" barb, thus the need for one hose to transition to 3/4"
They aren't truly "drop in" like my title says as they will require a little shortening, but it's pretty dang close and when you're finished, the routing will look factory.
Lane
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you = beast. Too bad I'll be using AN fittings. :'(
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Good to know :D
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I used those on Azar's car. :)
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Thanks Lane! Good stuff.
Did you guys have to look through a lot of hoses to find these?
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Thanks guys
I used those on Azar's car. :)
Yes, I remember you saying you'd used molded hoses but you were being a little butthole two weeks ago when you posted in my original thread and wouldn't give out the PNs ;)
Thanks Lane! Good stuff.
Did you guys have to look through a lot of hoses to find these?
It wasn't too bad. The 5/8" hose that flaired to 3/4" was the worst since none of the stores local to me had exactly what I was looking for, but they had hoses that put me in the ballpark PN wise and I honed my search in using google.
I wasn't going to post pictures before I was completely done installing them, but someone asked so here's an intermediate shot.
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/635.jpg)
When I took this picture I was using a full 3/4" hose for the bigger barb on the waterpump and then manually steped down the 5/8" further down the line. The part number I posted in the 1st post lists the hose that does the flair on its own.
Also. I was asked about heat concerns since the hoses pass close to the headers. My pic shows fiberglass sleaving I bought at mcmaster carr, but I've since decided against it since I think it's going to be a dirt magnet. I'm in the process of replacing the braided sleeving in my engine bay with DEI Fire Sleeving that has a iron oxide silicone rubber shell and should 'clean up' a little easier. If you want to do something similar, you'll need ~ 6ft of 1" ID fire sleeve:
http://www.amazon.com/010474-I-D-Fire-Sleeve-Tape/dp/B001HYRPC4 (http://www.amazon.com/010474-I-D-Fire-Sleeve-Tape/dp/B001HYRPC4)
Lane
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Haha, I never pay attention to part numbers. I just grab and go. :D
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damn man you think you got them clamps tight enough? I would just use the factory spring clamps they dont cut into the nice hoses you just bought.
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Haha! That picture makes it look worse than it is. I'm kind of gun shy when it comes to coolant leaks. I had a leak at the heater core connection that I misdiagnosed as a leaky core. One dash removal and installation later I'm warry of leaky coolant connections :D
Lane
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ya well worm clamps suck balls they cut hoses
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I've always heard not to use them on fuel lines, but I never really dug to found out why. Good to know.
I didn't get any OEM clamps with the engine, but I'm pretty sure I can find some constant-tension clamps from mcmaster.
Thanks for the tip
Lane
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Thanks Lane!
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I've always heard not to use them on fuel lines, but I never really dug to found out why. Good to know.
I didn't get any OEM clamps with the engine, but I'm pretty sure I can find some constant-tension clamps from mcmaster.
Thanks for the tip
Lane
Here are the parts I ordered from McMaster, full constant tension Breeze clamps for my Samberg V2 setup + heater hoses:
2 54205K13 5 Each Type 301 Ss Constant-tension Worm-drive Clamp, 11/16" To 1-1/4" Clamp Dia Range, 9/16" Band Wid
3 5325K28 5 Each 304 Ss Constant-tension Clamp W/410 Ss Screw, 1-1/4" To 2-1/8" Clamp Dia Range, 5/8" Band Width
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Thanks wompa164
I like constant tension screw clamps but are they any better than worm gear clamps in respect to cutting into hoses?
Lane
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Yes, yes they are.
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Awwwwwrighty then. Thanks for the education guys! I sincerely appreciate it! :cheers:
Lane
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Awesome post, thanks for the info. I was just about to put my heater hoses back on so I'll pick up some of these molded ones.
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Thanks Michael
Here are the real hoses side by side:
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/636.jpg)
And wrapped in DEI fire sleeve:
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/637.jpg)
Aaaaannnd installed (Although it's hard to see with all the most excellent A/C equipment in the way :yay:)
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/652.jpg)
Lane
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ya I went and got the hoses this weekend. I also got the gates power grip hose clamps.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1)
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Big money! :D
You can't see it in my pics above but I replaced all my heater hose clamps with the constant torque clamps wompa sourced for me. About the same price I guess, not as snazzy, but hey I can remove them if I need to :yay:
Lane
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nice! can you actually have these resting on the headers if wrapped with the firesleeve?
also to clarify,
both these hoses' "long" ends are 5/8" ID?
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I'm trying not to actually rest the firesleeve on the headers, but right now the lower hose basically is. I won't be able to give a definite answer until I get some mileage on my swap, but I will definitely monitor the sleeves / hoses and I'll keep an IR thermometer with me to see how hot the JTR ceramic headers actually get and if they approach / exceed the firesleeve rating.
Yes, both of the long ends are 5/8"
Lane
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ya I went and got the hoses this weekend. I also got the gates power grip hose clamps.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1)
I order a set as well of the hoses and fire sleeve. Any idea how well the power grips work? I never used, but like the clean look.
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Big money! :D
You can't see it in my pics above but I replaced all my heater hose clamps with the constant torque clamps wompa sourced for me. About the same price I guess, not as snazzy, but hey I can remove them if I need to :yay:
Lane
Holla! Glad I could help.. they're nice clamps (IDEAL/Breeze). I'm gonna have to pick up a set of these myself, adds a great little touch.
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ya I went and got the hoses this weekend. I also got the gates power grip hose clamps.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Power-Grip-Clamps/943359/10002/-1)
I order a set as well of the hoses and fire sleeve. Any idea how well the power grips work? I never used, but like the clean look.
no clue I'm going to find out here soon.
But they make it sound good here lol
Gates PowerGrip SB Clamps & Blue StripeŽ Coolant Hose (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GH1po8kP9c8#)
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anyone know what major local chainstore might have these hoses?
autozone apparently does not.
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Amazon is where I got mine. Came in a couple of days ;).
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http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap)
has the hoses and the clamps
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Gates 28471 is 5/8" all the way though. I've found that 5/8" is a good tight fit on the heater core barbs (may require boiling the hoses + windex) and my LS1 water pump uses a 3/4" and a 5/8" barb, thus the need for one hose to transition to 3/4"
i think you might have taken out the wrong part number when you updated for the 5/8-3/4 transition 18078 part number.
28471 turned out to be a 3/4 all the way through.
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Nope. They should be right. 28471 is 5/8ths all the way through and 18078 is 5/8ths with a 3/4" transition at the end for the waterpump barb. If you google the part numbers any of the online part houses that come up should list the ID for the hoses which should confirm what I'm saying. Perhaps the hose you got was mislabeled?
Anyone else had an issue with the part numbers?
Lane
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Perhaps the hose you got was mislabeled?
damn, stupid oriellys. that's very likely.
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Nope. They should be right. 28471 is 5/8ths all the way through and 18078 is 5/8ths with a 3/4" transition at the end for the waterpump barb. If you google the part numbers any of the online part houses that come up should list the ID for the hoses which should confirm what I'm saying. Perhaps the hose you got was mislabeled?
Anyone else had an issue with the part numbers?
Lane
I just got mine from RockAuto and the28471 is 5/8ths all the way through and the 18078 is 5/8ths with the 3/4" transition at the end for the water pump.
Joel
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I just picked up a pair of the hoses with the gates part number lane provided at a local autozone and they worked great. Thanks lane :cheers:
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Whoa, just saw this. I like it!!!
Posed the question a couple of weeks back and it didn't seem like anyone has gone through the trouble to find molded heater hoses that fit the LS1 in a FD chassis better than a straight hose that bends way up on the fender liner. Well, after several trips to my local auto stores I have the solution.
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/634.jpg)
Gates 18078
Gates 28471
The picture above doesn't actually show both of the correct hoses. I later found that 18078 was a better fit since it is a 5/8" hose that scales up to 3/4" right at the water pump nozzle. Gates 28471 is 5/8" all the way though. I've found that 5/8" is a good tight fit on the heater core barbs (may require boiling the hoses + windex) and my LS1 water pump uses a 3/4" and a 5/8" barb, thus the need for one hose to transition to 3/4"
They aren't truly "drop in" like my title says as they will require a little shortening, but it's pretty dang close and when you're finished, the routing will look factory.
Lane
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thanks. just checking the box on this thread is all.
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Well done! Thanks, you saved me a lot of time!
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Damnit, I couldnt find this thread yesterday so I just got straight hose.
:'(
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thank you
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anybody have info on how to convert the heater hoses to AN fittings and hoses?
i believe we would need -10 and -12
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Bust out the welder.
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My heater hoses are -6 and the heat works fine.
I have an electric water pump though, so it was easy to convert.
I've done stock pumps, you need to press out the factory fittings and tap it for NPT.
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Anybody found silicone heater hoses instead of the rubber L hoses in the first page of the thread?
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Great thread THANKS! both hoses were like 45 bucks then I bought some DEI heat shielding which was another 14 bucks.
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Anybody have anything to report regarding the heater hoses touching headers?
A/C expert LANE? Anything?
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Anybody have anything to report regarding the heater hoses touching headers?
A/C expert LANE? Anything?
I haven't put enough miles on mine to know for sure haha!
One of the heatsleeves on mine comes very close to touching the front most primary so I did take one extra precaution and wrapped the heatsleeve with a couple turns of fiberglass exhaust wrap. So far so good. I doubt it's necessary with the dei heatsleeve in place but I've tried to overengineer everything I can on my build so why stop there right? ;)
Lane
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Oh I forgot to add the dei foil wrap you need to remove the inner most sewing for it to fit perfectly around the hose
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nice find!
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Rather than starting a new post I thought I'd just add some part numbers to this for Dayco brand hoses. Gates products are unavailable to me easily at my location.
Dayco 87611
Dayco 80405
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Rather than starting a new post I thought I'd just add some part numbers to this for Dayco brand hoses. Gates products are unavailable to me easily at my location.
Dayco 87611
Dayco 80405
Thank you for posting. I updated the first post with your information :)
Lane
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I read through the whole thread and must have missed it and I can't seem to find the OD sizes for these hoses.
What size of the gates powergrip clamps did you guys buy or what size constant tension?
Thanks!
jaime
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I read through the whole thread and must have missed it and I can't seem to find the OD sizes for these hoses.
What size of the gates powergrip clamps did you guys buy or what size constant tension?
Thanks!
jaime
Sorry. I can't help with either question as I didn't use gates heat shrink bands AND my car is 100 miles away so I can't break out the caliper for OD measurements.
Lane
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Thanks wompa164
I like constant tension screw clamps but are they any better than worm gear clamps in respect to cutting into hoses?
Lane
Check out these shielded ones by Breeze:
[attachimg=1]
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Where did you find them?
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Found a few as military surplus, just by luck. Military part # MS-35842-12.