Well here we go...
I used the Granny?s Speed Shop engine cradle and transmission mount. Here?s a picture of it installed on my stock subframe; it is important to keep the bolts which mount the new frame to the existing loose until the engine is mounted to the sub frame as this allows additional flex for the very tight fitment that Granny?s provides. It is also important to mount the engine to the REAR holes on the subframe (provided you will be removing or relocating the EGR valve from the back of the intake manifold), they are approximately 1? further back. The front holes are for old school SBC?s which have distributors on the rear of the engine.
I chose to use a manual steering rack; they are readily available from
www.car-parts.com . Although I believe they are not necessary for fitment, I found the pan to rack clearance to be extremely tight with the manual rack... If it is too close, a flat washer can be added to increase the clearance. Some benefits to using a manual rack include quicker steering ratio, lighter weight, & one less system to have to worry about during the swap.
Here is a picture of the transmission mount installed. It uses 3 bolts which pass through the floor pan of the car on each side? this requires drilling through the floor pan. Although this may seem like a pain, I have found this method to be way stronger than other methods. The carpet does not have to be removed to drill the holes; it can simply be pulled back from the sides. The placement puts the shifter at a perfectly centered location in the interior.
The T56 transmission uses a push-style hydraulic clutch with is very similar to the stock RX-7 setup. Because the stock RX7 master will not displace enough fluid to disengage the clutch, I chose to use a 7/8? master cylinder from Tilton (wildwood, USBrake, etc. all work fine). The stock Mazda master cylinder has mounting holes at 2 & 8 o?clock whereas the aftermarket master cylinder uses holes at 12 & 6 o?clock; I chose to build a custom bracket to use the existing holes and keep the master cylinder upright. Here?s a picture of the bracket I made from a 1? thick piece of plastic material. I believe Hinson Supercars now sells something similar.
A clutch line can be fabricated using a 36? long -3AN steel braided hose with a -3AN straight fitting for the slave cylinder end and a -3AN 90* fitting for the master cylinder end. The LT1-style T56 slave cylinder uses a special ?roll pin? fitting that is now available through Russel Performance, part #640281 , this connects to the -3AN end of the hose and plugs into the slave cylinder.
There are so many different ways to skin the cat when it comes to cooling. I chose to go the route of buying an aftermarket radiator and fabricating my own mounts. I purchased a 26?x19? three core radiator from Howe Racing? this was about the biggest radiator I could fit between the frame rails. It required cutting two very small flaps of metal near the headlight structure.
I fabricated brackets which support the radiator from the bottom with pieces of flat bar which when bent and drilled to hold the radiator in an upright position. I lined the brackets with some rubber so that vibrations would not allow the steel to wear into the soft aluminum radiator.