Lets not catch it on fire this time (FC Build - 4 Link, LS1 Turbo, TH400)

[SH4DY]

That picture may be misleading about how back it is. NHRA reg is 6" from the u-joint to the front of the loop. It should be pretty close...

[SH4DY]

Got around to mounting the buttons for the trans brake and bump:




I broke out the tape measure and you guys were right: WAY the fuck off. I'm going to have a cut a bunch out of the tunnel to get it fit where it's supposed to be.

[SH4DY]

She moved under her own power yesterday:







Basic still need to do's:
Get the rear ride height sorted
Move driveshaft loop forward
Mount seat
Get a hood and cut down the dump tubes
Mount Fire suppression system


Not so basics:
The trans brake works but it's not bumping in. Not sure if the issue is the relay, MS3 settings or what but I don't really want to stay on the brake in order to troubleshoot. Right now, I've got the 12V going through one button on the wheel going to the NC part of the relay which goes right to the TB. I'm using this 12v supply (pre-relay) to signal the MS3 (launch in) and to feed the other button. The second button goes to the MS3 (bump input) and I'm using the MS3 bump output (ground) to ground the coil on the relay.
EDIT: now that I think about it, I was only at like 25% throttle. Need to check the settings.

The other issue is the oil pressure. In the FD (same motor/ turbo) I was seeing ~35 psi hot. In this car I added an oil cooler (stock FC unit) and now the oil pressure is ~25 psi hot. High volume pump, -10AN lines, 10-40w oil. It rises with RPM like it should (10 psi per 1k rpms per manual) but still a little low for my liking. I may try straight 40w since I dont drive it in the cold anyway.

[freeskier7791]

oil pressure is definitely odd.  I would try running the 15w50 before going to straight 40.  Thing looks mean with the rear tires/wheels

[PapioGXL]

The bump is very power sensitive. If you're using settings that work at full tilt, it won't even budge the car at lower power.

[SH4DY]

Small update:
The last couple of weeks has been a lot of one step forward and two steps back. Went to the dyno last weekend only to have the tires rub at higher speeds on the frame rails and discovered the car was only running on 7 cylinders. So, got to work on notching the frame some more and fixed a coilpack connector that the pins had gotten messed up in. I also sorted out some wiring gremlins with the trans brake and bump.
Also, i took out the thermostat in the FC oil cooler and hot oil pressure is up to 32 which is much more to my liking.
Hooray, right? Nope. Dumbass here welded in the seat platform before i put in the rollbar padding and without a helmet and yep, fucking helmet hits the bar. So now, I've got to cut all of that out and mount it as low as possible. Part of me wants to redo the tunnel and floorpans but I'm so close to having the car ready I'm not sure i want to right now. Calling for crap weather for the next two weeks so I've got some time to sort it out.
In other news: i ordered a 4" cowl hood from jpezzuti that should be here on the 15th. Pretty stoked.

[Ls2Rx7]

Good job man! looking good glad to see you back on your feet. It was a quick turn around just like mine. Yours should make good power when all sorted out. Mine is still doing really good now as well and tuned on low boost with good power. had make a new fuel hanger setup with two new dual intake pumps that seems to be doing really well. Just have to find time get my car back up to the dyno to turn up the boost

[shainiac]

For the bump box, are you using a solid state relay? It's my understanding that a typical Bosch-style relay can't react quick enough to work properly for bumping.

[SH4DY]

For the bump box, are you using a solid state relay? It's my understanding that a typical Bosch-style relay can't react quick enough to work properly for bumping.

Yep - using a PCB mounted SSR I put in a small enclosure. 12v/ 15A capable. The "gremlins" were me making assumptions about the MS3pro. There is only 1 "Digital switched 12V in" the rest of the "digital switched in" wires are looking for grounds, not 12v like I assumed. Reading is fundamental as they say...

Good job man! looking good glad to see you back on your feet. It was a quick turn around just like mine. Yours should make good power when all sorted out. Mine is still doing really good now as well and tuned on low boost with good power. had make a new fuel hanger setup with two new dual intake pumps that seems to be doing really well. Just have to find time get my car back up to the dyno to turn up the boost

Hell yea. Glad I could help with the cause. I've still got the roller sitting and those wheels for sale if you or your brother know anyone looking.

Edit: just pulled the trigger on a TIG welder. Should make life much easier working on the thinner metals.

[SH4DY]

Stuff and things:

Drive shaft safety loop extended to get within the 6" of the yoke required:


jpezzuti 4" cowl hood:


Made a door panel:


Added a back support for the seat:


Had to cut out and redo the seat mounting points to get it lower:

[1320king]

pics dont work :-(

[SH4DY]

Shit. They work for me - using the norotors gallery instead of photobucket

[1320king]

yup nada on my end, even tried clicking them.

[SH4DY]

Should work now

[scuter83]

Work for me....