Tomo Build thread, I can see the future and it is smokey

[Tomo]

So I've been putting it off for a little while now. Mostly because I'm pretty terrible about actually taking pictures of things. But I will now and henceforth do my best to grab pictures of the things I get in the mail and that I'm working on.

To start, I got this car from a guy I know through local events, seems he also had the car listed up here. Body was (is) in rough shape, and I knew that going in, but it seemed like a good stalled project to pick up and see to the end.

1990 GTU with a 2000 Vette Motor, no trans, stock mazda power steering pump in the bag, Hinson swap parts, including a not pictured radiator, and electrical harness with some missing labels that I eventually figured out.

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Weee aluminum drive-shaft. Right now the rear flange is for the N/A diff, but at some point I'll be pulling the trigger on a Ronin 8.8 Explorer kit. So it'll end up chopped off and new bits welded on.

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I've been poking around the engine bay, sourcing things like power steering pump, and lines. I removed the stock clutch master to install the wilwood unit. Which meant pulling the seats out and all the shenanigans. Fortunately as I had received the car it already had the dash removed, as well as most of the interior. Unfortunately the floor was hiding some not so nice secrets.

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The car also did not come with the fuel tank installed. I finally pulled it out of the cabin and emptied out the REALLY stale fuel...also might have been premixed? I've never seen fuel so dark and red before. This might give you some indication of the conditions inside that tank

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I'll see what I can do about getting pictures of the tank insides themselves... the cancer is strong with this one.   
Any ideas on cleaning it out? Right now I think I'm just going to take a spray hose to it and see what comes out...but I'm open to suggestions.

I managed to clean up the pump retainer some and added a Walbro 255.
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Much better!

That's as much "progress" I can report on for right now. But more will be coming. Soon I expect to be able to finish the power steering lines. I've got some of the coolant stuff figured out. I'll get you more pictures...the floor board rust is mirrored on the passenger side.     

I also managed to source a gem of a t56, and got a LS7 clutch and flywheel for cheap because the don't look very pretty...but the surface rust will not last very long.

[Ebush]

Good start. Get that rust taken care of!

[Tomo]

Yeah that's the plan.

Gonna get the engine running and car moving first that way I can get it to a lift and have a bit better access to all the places that need grinding. 

[mobythevan]

Take a long road trip and go buy that perfect FC shell from hoghead for $800. 

[Tomo]

I'm really beginning to think that finding a new chassis is the right answer. 

Anyone know someone looking for a Lemons or Chump car?

[Sho Amo]

I wouldnt bother fixing any of that. Theres plenty of cheap shells around selling cheap.

Looks like you have most of the parts though. 

[Dvous]

thats rusty? you guys should visit new england! 

honestly, for the cost of an FC shell it may be worth it to snag a new one.

[mobythevan]

We are spoiled as you well know 

[Tomo]

Well it looks like I've already got a lead on a Arctic Silver N/A  RX for 1,000. I need to find more details about it but it might be the right car. For now all I know that's "wrong" is the sunroof panel has rust. As long as it isn't "rusted through" it shouldn't be a big deal. Grind, fill, smooth, paint.

[N2v8fcs]

If your going to buy another car that has "rust issues" why not just keep and fix what you've got?

Just my .02

[mobythevan]

Certainly do what you want.  I remember when I was highly motivated and bought a very rusty 240z.  I tried for a while to replace floor pans and other parts.  Some of it turned out good.  But once I got 100's of hours into it I bought a rust free shell for $500 and was very happy to move on to driving and engine swapping. 

[theantirotor]

my car is rust free other than the sunroof panel too.  the sunroof panel is known to be one of the major rust areas on an fc.  if thats all that has rust the silver one would be a good shell.

[Tomo]

Welp, I bought a new shell.

I'll post up details when I get it brought home. But I currently hold the title.

No rust, checked all the "places"

The "Bad" is someone thought to take upon themselves their own swap. It has a sheet metal dash, all the accessories removed, no dash bar. The core support has been cut out, and there is no frame brace across the bottom. The headlights have been removed and an attempt to mold the covers into the hood has been made.

The "Good" is, as stated rust free. It has some aftermarket wheels. And the piece de resistance. It has a built, flowed heads, cam'd, Ford 5.0 with a T5. I'm going to be getting a full parts list for the engine. It's probably going to be going up on a fire sale to quickly make back the cash used to source the shell.

[hayabusa]

Your gonna take parts off of old rusty i assume?

[Tomo]

I am indeed. There are a few things that I'll transfer over. The heater/ac stuff and the rear wiper-less window being 2 i can think of. You know...aside from my LS.

I'll likely sell "rusty" for scrap. Maybe get 200 or 300 for it?