March 28, 2024, 06:38:44 PM

Author Topic: Autox + road course FD LS1 swap  (Read 61659 times)

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #60 on: July 07, 2013, 11:11:53 PM »
Get rid of those stupid things.   Get some of the new Russel ones that screw together.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #61 on: July 08, 2013, 03:31:10 AM »
Get rid of those stupid things.   Get some of the new Russel ones that screw together.

Got a link?

Offline ls3_rob

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #62 on: July 08, 2013, 09:44:34 AM »
3/8" screw on fitting

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644120

5/16" screw on fitting

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644110

 :wave:

never have that trouble again with these
07 tl type s daily
93 rx7 ls3

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #63 on: July 08, 2013, 03:59:32 PM »
Thanks Rob, I ordered 1 of each for my corvette FPR... Just sucks that these cost the same as the push-on fittings but weren't available then.

Offline ls3_rob

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #64 on: July 08, 2013, 04:01:50 PM »
I would also recommend getting one for the fuel rail because that is the fitting that is most likely to give you an engine fire.

07 tl type s daily
93 rx7 ls3

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #65 on: July 08, 2013, 04:03:25 PM »
That is the 3/8 " one right?

*edit* Yup, 3/8" fuel rail line, got that ordered also. Getting rid of these push on fittings.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2013, 04:14:02 PM by markfluko »

Offline perf0rmance

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #66 on: July 08, 2013, 04:15:24 PM »
When I get home, I'll post some pics.. but you would want this:

http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=6117857&ukey_assembly=810687&ukey_make=0&ukey_model=0&ukey_driveline=8721&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0


It's number 1
It's the same piece that's used for the stock camaro LS1 at the fuel rail.... I ended up getting 2 more for the fuel filter. Autozone has fittings that you could use... it'll  make more sense when I post from home.

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #67 on: July 14, 2013, 09:44:13 PM »
New fittings came in the mail while I was out of town. Summit once again confirming crazy fast shipping.

Found 1 pic of my car at autox.


Offline FC3S Murray

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #68 on: July 15, 2013, 12:02:20 AM »
Nice pic!

Yeah those damn plastic Russell fittings suck big time. I had it on my LS1 fuel rail during my build process and while working on the drive side coil packs I accidentally nudged my fuel line and it popped right off........after that little humbling moment I went and purchased the screw on style.

 You most likely saved yourself from a bad "roadside fire pit" experience.

Nice work on the FD so far too bud!



13 years of abuse and still running STRONG!

SRM Performance Tuning LLC
https://www.instagram.com/fc3s_murray/?hl=en

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #69 on: August 30, 2013, 11:42:58 PM »
Feels like it's been awhile since I updated this.

If anyone in the TX area wants someone to do a LS swapped RX-7, or any chassis really, I would highly recommend MER in Cresson, TX. Or any high performance suspension work. They will really take care of your car and it will get a very thorough look over to make sure everything is ready to race. The prices for swaps are very well priced for everything being done correctly and by someone experienced.

Weighted, corner weighted and setup the car at MER, I only took a pic of before changing the corner weights, cross weight was at 50.5% after finished. Car weighed 2553 lbs without me, but a full tank of gas.



BIG Props to Darin at MER for helping me with the alignment setup and corner weighting.





Also got dyno tuned.



Made some wheel well liners. Made of aluminum and seal off the wheel well completely with foam tape and aluminum riv-nuts with button head bolts.



These are mostly temporary. I got a TIG recently and plan on making my permanent version of these out of aluminum with the head light being attached as well so it will all lift out.

Next for me on this car is replacing a few older rubber bushings and I need to replace the ball joints. May try to go another route... Also got a wideband and gauge, need to install both of those.

I want to start working on a full underbody aero setup, but I will be testing the Ronin 8.8 Explorer diff subframe kit, so I need to order a Explorer diff soon and figure I should wait to do an underbody until I have the driveline setup to make sure everything will clear OK. Maybe I can just get a splitter setup first in the meantime.

AutoX season starts soon so I may need to hold off on anything as involved as aero until it's over and only work on designing the new headlights/wheel well.

I really need to get out and do some track days more than anything to get more feedback from the car rather than just throwing money at upgrading things haha
« Last Edit: September 22, 2014, 12:47:58 AM by markfluko »

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #70 on: September 25, 2013, 02:12:48 AM »
CF Sunroof Delete







This is my main chassis wiring fusebox. Everything can be taken out of the car in under 10 min. All aluminum panel with aluminum riv-nuts used as perches just like a computer motherboard.

It is about 85% done. Only two more things to wire up, kill switch being one of them. Everything has been documented and I have made it's own wiring schematic.

Still waiting on my TIG and I need a gas setup before I can weld a battery tray.













« Last Edit: September 25, 2013, 02:20:11 AM by markfluko »

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #71 on: October 06, 2013, 10:46:55 PM »
Removed most of the sound deadening. Still some on the firewall and in the rear of the car.  Going to be stitch welding the car when this autox season is over. I will remove the rest of the sound deadening then.  So I am probably right at ~2500 lbs now with near full tank of gas.

Removed with dry ice, screw driver and hammer. Then the clean up of residual deadening and seam sealer was with a screw driver, grinder and Xylene.





Moved the battery to a more permanent location.  There has been a set back in getting my TIG, so I am going to make a steel version before I do aluminum. Came up with a simple design first, then made it. Now the whole battery setup is done. All the chassis wiring is out of the car right now. Almost done documenting all of it. I am waiting a new scale so I can weigh it all before I put it back in.











Offline Shavel

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #72 on: October 07, 2013, 12:37:09 AM »
Awesome.  Is Ronin producing the sunroof delete now?
Ant

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #73 on: October 07, 2013, 11:26:27 PM »
Ronin is indeed making them. Although I believe there was only one other one available for the time being. It may or may not be gone already... I would contact them ASAP if you are wanting one.

Offline markfluko

Re: Typical FD LS1 swap
« Reply #74 on: February 25, 2014, 01:37:11 PM »
Been a long time since I updated.

Got Powerflex P/S rack bushings, front and rear sway bar bushings, and diff bushings. APR side view mirrors. Timken rear wheel bearings. Ronin FD 8.8 Swap. 2010 Ford Explorer diff with 5300 miles on it... although it is an open diff. IT SUCKS!!! The Ronin kit is great, but the open diff is what sucks. I should have put in a True Trac when I had everything apart.





Compared to stock diff size













The only thing that doesn't work on the car is the fuel level sensor. I thought I had near a full tank of gas before I left in the morning for autox. I was driving out to autox and was almost there, and then it started bucking a little bit and the air-to-fuel ratio was showing really lean mixture when it was, so I knew there was fuel starvation. I take an exit road and there is a gas station 3 miles away. Then the car runs out of fuel as I pull over on the side of the road. It is already 9:02 and if I don't register by 9:30 I don't drive. If I called anyone for help there is no way they would get there in time. So I just said F it and stuck my thumb out the window. 2 people drove by then a lady in a white suburban drove by then turned around and hesitantly asked me what I needed. I explained as much as I could and she drove me to the gas station and I bought a gas can and got 2 gallons of gas and she drove me back to my car. I asked if she wanted any money and she just said no and just drove off. So I filled up my car and drove back to the gas station and filled it up and then got to autox at the registration booth with literally 1 min left. They closed it right after me. PHEW.

Here is my 3rd place autox run. My chinese GoPro adapter didn't come in in time so the sound kind of sucks. Didn't ever felt like I got a good run in. Need to hone the driving skills some more. First time I have ever driven a car with an open diff hard.  I have always had the good fortune of buying cars with non-open diffs.




Future plans are to make sure I didn't damage the fuel pump with my mistake of not checking fuel. and fix the god damn hatch rattle.