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Author Topic: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build  (Read 40391 times)

Offline viper2oo2

E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« on: December 27, 2012, 10:17:51 PM »
Goals:  "Quick,"  "Easy," Cali Smog-legal.  Those 3 add up to an E-Rod build, since emissions should be easy, it comes most of the parts I would need (other than trans/cooling/fuel), the wiring harness has like 9 connections that need to be made.  I don't want to do anything extra on this build.  It's much easier for me to work on a car that I can drive rather than one that I can't, so I want to just get it back together first, and then complete any mods I would like to do (rear end/suspension, etc.)

Plans:
E-Rod (Smog Legal)
T-56
Howe Radiator
Samberg Mount Kit
Power-steering (2004 GTO Pump)
No A/C (San Diego!)
No Rear End Mods/Suspension Mods until it's back together
6 Month Build (HA!!!  Not gonna happen....)

Some boring BS background stuff..

After plenty of searching for my "perfect" car, I found an auto SSM base model with a black interior that was clean title an no accidents.  It had more miles than I'd like, 164k, but really for a swap car, who cares?  The car actually ran, but the paint was crap and it didn't boost correctly, it had a bit of aftermarket goodies on it (Mazdaspeed Exhaust, Mocal Dual Oil Coolers, R1 Strut bar, Greddy Gauges, Tein HA? Coilovers) so I picked it up for $6500 and figured I could part it out and get the real cost down quite a bit.

The car sat around for months while I (mostly) finished my original project car (Factory Five Shelby Cobra), and the time has finally come to build the RX7.  I've been collecting parts over the last couple months so I would be mostly ready when the time came, I'm waiting to purchase the engine until I've got the majority of things ready (or Summit Racing has a discount) since the engine comes with a 2 year warranty from the time I purchase it.

I started working on Monday since I had time off from work and then worked all today, I have the engine just about ready to come out, just a couple more things to remove, but that'll probably have to wait till Monday since I've only got a half day of work tomorrow and I'll be gone over the weekend.

I'll post up pictures and parts list of what I've purchased when I get a chance.

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2012, 10:18:19 PM »
Parts List (at least the start of it):
1993 SSM Base RX7, Clean Title, No Accidents, Running but not boosting correctly, Repainted with paint peeling, Mazdaspeed Exhaust and Oil Filler Cap, ARC intake and piping, Intercooler (can't remember which), Mocal Dual Oil Coolers, R1 Strut Bar - $6500 - $750 for the Engine - $460 Oil coolers - $110 Cats -$170 ARC pipes/BOV/AST= $5010

Manual Pedals - (Long Story) 1993 Salvage Title, No Engine but Manual, Smashed while in Junkyard, Base/R1, Bought for $650, Sold Car for $1550, Sold some parts for $450 and took the Pedals - -$1350 (I won't count this)

LS3 E-Rod for Manual Trans - $7,200 (with 10% off) Link
Samberg Mount Kit with CTS-V Pedal Mount and no Rear Diff Mount (Because I didn't know I needed it, whoops) - $1490 Link
Samberg Rear Diff Mount - $400 Link
Front Powerflex Bushings(PFF36-301, PFF36-302, PFF36-303, PFF36-306) - $267
C-West Headlights - $325
RB Swaybar Brace - $45
99 Spec Bumber, 99 Lip, 99 Brake Ducts, Oil Cooler Ducts (going to sell the ducts I think) - $750-115 (99 ducts) = 635
99 Spec Turn Signal (Depo) - $76 99 00 01 02 Mazda RX7 RX-7 Front Bumper Signal Lights BLACK DEPO
Alternator - $145 Link
T-56 - DEPOSIT LEFT ($250, $1800 TOTAL) LS T56\BELHOUSING\PRO5.0 SHIFTER
Radiator - Howe 34327RNF, use stock fans - $284 Link
Reverse lockout - $80 - (hope it works) Link
Engine Pedestals (C5) - $90 - Link
Clutch Master With Clocking Mount (Hinson) - $112 Link
Clutch Slave cylinder (Camaro) - $66 Link
Clutch Line/Fittings - $60 - Hose --  Banjo Bolt -- Fitting For Slave Cyl -- Link to Thread I Got Parts List From
Clutch Speedbleeder (Tick Performance) - $57 Link
Speedometer Correction - Dakota Digital - $80 Link
WRONG Power Steering Pump (2004 fits F-Body, 2005-6 is What I need for Y-body and I had to tap one hole to get it to mount up) - $
Fuel Pump - WALBRO 400 - $146  - Link
CTS-V Alternator Bracket/Bolts - $53 - Link
LS1 Oil Pan, Gasket, Drain Plug and Hardware w/ Improved Racing Baffle - $419 - Link
LS1 Windage Tray (not sure I need this) - $19 - Link
LS1 Dip Stick Tube - $16 - Link
LS1 Dip Stick Tube - $13 - Link
LS1 Oil Pickup Tube - $39- Link
Starter, ACDelco 12617229 - $96 Link
Starter Bolt, ACDelco 11610787 - $5 Link
Monster Stage 2 Clutch/Light Flywheel, Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts (After MC110 discount) - $645 - Link
Trans mount, Energy Susension 3.1108 - $28 - Link
Accutach Reverse Lockout Controller - $80 - Link
« Last Edit: August 04, 2014, 08:12:45 PM by viper2oo2 »

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2012, 10:18:46 PM »
Current Pic:
[attach=1]

20 Days, 84.5 hours
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 10:47:17 PM by viper2oo2 »

Offline digitalsolo

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2012, 10:53:19 PM »
Looking forward to seeing it.  :)
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Negrok20r

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2012, 01:23:46 AM »
in for info on how you make the car smog legal
thats what i want to do with mine too
dc2 k20 turbo
93 FD under construction
" If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over ? "

Offline Jordan Innovations

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Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2012, 04:17:26 AM »
Where are you located, norcal or socal?

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2012, 10:41:59 PM »
Don't have many before pictures, but here's one from Monday before I started:
[attach=1]

And here's one from today.
[attach=2]

I got the engine, trans and exhaust out today.  Left off yesterday with 2 nuts left on the power plant frame.  Got those off and "dropped" the PPF, luckily not on my hand.  Once I had the PPF off I couldn't jack from the diff since it wasn't supported, I'm not sure how you're supposed to jack it up without the PPF.  I used the mount location for the rear lca.

I couldn't get the drive shaft unbolted, so I just supported it when I removed the engine/trans and it slid out as the trans pulled away.  I think that was easier than removing the bolts, at least because it was in park and I'm not sure how to rotate the DS with the trans in park.

Engine came out easy...right after I thought I would have to take the trans off because I couldn't get the engine high enough to disengage from the sub-frame.  I had used an L shaped bracket (that came with my leveler) to lift the engine and that was hitting the firewall, so I used just the chain, which didn't catch the firewall, that allowed me to raise and tip the engine enough to get it out.   I used an engine leveler and got it out by myself, I figured I was going to have to call a friend to help, but it was easier than I thought.

Here's a pic with the engine out, where you can see the car:
[attach=3]

The joy's of working by yourself...could not get the hoist over the lip in the driveway...and I almost tipped it...but I got it with the jack.
[attach=4]

I don't know how, but I made it up the driveway...
[attach=5]
« Last Edit: December 28, 2012, 11:05:45 PM by viper2oo2 »

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2012, 10:56:44 PM »
in for info on how you make the car smog legal
thats what i want to do with mine too
I'm going to use the E-Rod, http://www.chevroletperformance.com/erod/, so the engine package will have a CARB sticker with it, I just have to install all the parts and take it to a BAR Ref to get it fully legal.  Hopefully it'll only be twice as hard as I think it will be.  They're doing a similar build on motoiq.com - http://www.motoiq.com/projects/mazda/project_mazda_v8_rx-7.aspx

Where are you located, norcal or socal?
Socal, San Diego.

Current Plans:
Coat the samberg sub-frame in Por-15
Pull the subframe
Replace the control arm bushings before installing on samberg subframe
Install steering rack spacers, bump steer correction and replace rack bushings
Start figuring out what I need to do for the wiring
« Last Edit: December 28, 2012, 11:57:37 PM by viper2oo2 »

Offline Jordan Innovations

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Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2012, 02:36:18 AM »
I have an E-Rod LS3 kit installed in a customer's FD at my shop right now if you wanted to take a look at it, we've done Erods in a bunch of chassis now.

We're in Irwindale, about 2hrs north of SD.

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2012, 10:57:09 AM »
I have an E-Rod LS3 kit installed in a customer's FD at my shop right now if you wanted to take a look at it, we've done Erods in a bunch of chassis now.

We're in Irwindale, about 2hrs north of SD.

Yeah, I'd love to see it.  Can I just stop by when you're open?  I've got family in the area, so I will be there periodically.

Offline Negrok20r

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2012, 11:38:26 PM »
I have an E-Rod LS3 kit installed in a customer's FD at my shop right now if you wanted to take a look at it, we've done Erods in a bunch of chassis now.

We're in Irwindale, about 2hrs north of SD.


I was looking at the erod ls3 but Im concern of the placement of the cats...
Do they fit the fd without mods being made?
Or if mods are made it wil still be smog legal? Or the referee isnt that hard on erod swap since is already smog friendly

dc2 k20 turbo
93 FD under construction
" If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over ? "

Offline Jordan Innovations

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Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2012, 05:05:25 PM »
Yeah, I'd love to see it.  Can I just stop by when you're open?  I've got family in the area, so I will be there periodically.

You bet, just call the shop to make sure we're here.  (626) 472-6360

I was looking at the erod ls3 but Im concern of the placement of the cats...
Do they fit the fd without mods being made?
Or if mods are made it wil still be smog legal? Or the referee isnt that hard on erod swap since is already smog friendly

You definitely have to mod the cat pipes lol.  We chopped the cats off and used stainless 2.5" mandrel bends to put them in the correct position, barely clearing the TR6060 and FD frame.  Came out great though!







Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2012, 09:18:24 PM »

You bet, just call the shop to make sure we're here.  (626) 472-6360


Awesome, hopefully I'll make it up there before you're done.


Today I got the sub-frame coated in Por-15.  First, I cleaned it with "Marine Clean" then soaked it in "Metal Ready" to prepare the metal.  I let it dry (with some assist from a heat gun) and then brushed on the Por-15.  Let it dry most of the way, which takes forever, I waited 3 hours and it probable wasn't completely ready for the second coat, but I had to leave so I put it on anyway.  It's still drying as we speak, I'll put some pics up tomorrow.  Next I'm going to primer and paint it gloss black, just to give it some extra protection.

I think I'm going to start an hour and day count (the number I actually work), so when it's all done I'll know how much of my life I wasted on this project.  So far I've worked on it 4 days for a total of about 27 hours and have the engine/trans out and the sub-frame coated.

Offline viper2oo2

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2013, 10:15:27 PM »
The dried Por-15 looked good, but I wanted a little extra insurance, so I primered with rattle can automotive primer then sprayed rustoleum professional high gloss black. End result looks fine, a couple of runs and plenty of unevenness, I could have sanded the primer, but since this is going at the bottom of the engine bay, I didn't think it was worth the effort.  I do need to clean up most of the bolt holes and the surface that locates the camber bolts.

Here's what I used for the base coat, the 4 oz can was just enough to do 2 coats on the sub-frame:
[attach=1]
Here's the before:
[attach=2]
And After:
[attach=3]
5 Days, 27.5 hours
« Last Edit: January 01, 2013, 10:23:55 PM by viper2oo2 »

Offline radiomike

Re: E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build
« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2013, 10:21:53 AM »
I have an E-Rod LS3 kit installed in a customer's FD at my shop right now if you wanted to take a look at it, we've done Erods in a bunch of chassis now.

We're in Irwindale, about 2hrs north of SD.

Are you using an oil cooler with the TR6060, apparently only the Camaro has one as standard?