-Motor and Trans dropping in. Danzan likes my engine.
-Everyone needs a picture like this at some point. The load leveler is once again key. I installed this with the intake and valley cover removed using the valley cover bolt holes front and rear.
-Best way to get the engine aligned to the cradle: It's IMPORTANT to do a dry fit out of the car to be sure the width is right (some of these can be a bit warped). On Brismo's car we had to drive each side of the cradle in by about 1/4" with a scissor jack. Then you use the same scissor jack to shove the engine to the rear. A mechanics jack under the tail of the transmission is useful for getting the side to side alignment right.
-I'm more impressed with Grannies bolt through the floor tranny brace design after closer inspection than when I first looked at it. The plates up top are just long enough that they capture the two undercar channels (I want to call them frame rails but they're really not) thereby adding strength. It's going to be hard to get the exhaust up and over this guy but I think it's do able.
-Driveshaft was the perfect length (c4 vette shaft, with the longer slip yoke and mazda rear flange both, everything is referenced in my parts list up top.)
-I cut down the stock camaro shift boot and sandwiched it in place using the oem FC frame. Should help with transmission tunnel heat and the shifter landed so nice in the hole that I had to try it.
-Pushrods and rockers are in. Valve covers next.
-If you haven't done so already you're about to figure out where you need to clearance stuff to make this fit. I can confirm you need to cut off the driver?s side Mazda tranny mount (bulge on side of tunnel) I ground mine as flat as I could, sealed the gaps with hot glue [Ed note: I didn't realize how high the exhaust would have to run so epoxy or caulk might have been a better choice. Nothing's melted yet, but I thought I'd mention it] so it won't "drink water" and painted it with undercoating. I left the other Mazda trans mount in place. Trimming off one bulge only will only work if you running Grannies mounts on the rear hole. Any other combo and they both need to be removed.
-I had to yank the engine out one more time after test fitting the JTR headers. If you run Hinson mounts or Grannies on the front cradle holes you'll probably get away with less. Mine needed significant clearancing on both sides. One warning: don't get too aggressive with your firewall modding or you'll start messing with the area under the gas pedal.
Here's the final version with the headers installed. Passenger side is a tad closer than the drivers. Headers go in easy from the bottom (assuming you have the car pretty high on the jack stands) but it does help if you put the starter in afterward.
-Starting to peel back all the shrink wrap. If you look closely you can see where I trimmed the lip on the firewall for intake manifold clearance. I also had to dent in the center slightly where the nipple for the map sensor sticks out.
-Manifold fits nice
-Using the rear holes on Grannies mount leaves me ~5/8" in clearance to the firewall on the passenger side head and the shifter fits PERFECTLY in the stock location (no trimming required). If you ask me this is the biggest advantage of Grannies mounts over other offerings.